

This is a holiday characterised by a combination
of peaceful, gentle exercise and a sense of freedom. We discovered
a young man preparing and selling fruit cocktails
from a boat on the canal near Coulon. A great
idea and a most pleasant surprise on a hot
afternoon.
- James Patterson
Day 1 Vallans
We are met at Niort station by a very friendly taxi driver. It is just 20 minutes to a very pretty house surrounded by a large garden. Annie and Bruno are there to meet us. We have time for our first cycle around the village, and after I get over my fear, it is after all 25 years since last I rode a bike, I feel wonderful..I can do it!
Day 2 Vallans
Shown how to mend a puncture , but told only one puncture, so far, all summer. Much more important to remember to wear our sunglasses, hats and suncream as it is now very hot. A cross country cycle, about 12kms, through the Foret de Chizé, a very ancient woodland, to arrive at the "free range" zoo at Villiers in time for lunch. The kids are going to see the animals, all native European species including a local breed of donkey with mammoth lop ears, I am going to try the restaurant. I can cycle it off in the afternoon, in time for another tasty dinner.
Day 3 Vallans-Coulon 14kms
A full day cycling by the canals. The houses which line the water are all gaily painted and resemble dolls's houses. The cycle paths take us down back roads and farm tracks. The important thing is to keep looking for the little 'cyclist sign'. They are all numbered and coloured so it shouldn't be difficult! Poplar trees and willow line the route and every now and again we come across a little market garden with vegetables in neat rows.
Day 4 Coulon
One of the prettiest villages in France. The river Sevr}s runs through the middle and is filled with punts for hire. Madame Nerri}re, our hotel owner, recommends a guide who turns out to be very knowledgeable. We spend the morning enclosed by silence except for the wind and the birds and the gentle splash of the paddle. A demonstration of how to set fire to the methane produced from the rotting leaves is particularly exciting. The surface of the water is on fire.
Day 5 Coulon-Velluire (24kms)
We stop at Maillezais. It has the morning market in full swing, and the local speciality, torteau fromage, a round 'burnt' cake, just has to be tried. Inside is the most delicious creamy sponge. The ruins of the 14C chateau can be visited, but the village is tiny, it's hard to imagine this was once the 'power house' of the Dukes of Aquitaine.
Day 6 Velluire
The bus leaves the village at 12.40 for La Rochelle. It is a day by the seaside. La Rochelle has wonderful fish restaurants, lots of outside cafés and a very impressive aquarium.
Day 7 Velluire-Vallans (30kms)
Back track through Vix and passed the wonderful garden filled with topiary before picking up the southern part of the circuit des ecluses route. Down amidst the canals it is easy cycling, more meandering than pedaling and more fun than in the marais sec with the acres of sunflowers or sweetcorn. Stopped for the menu du jour at Damvix.
Day 8
Say goodbye to everyone and we are back in the taxi on the way to the station. What a good holiday. I feel really fit and well.