A 9 night diary in Alsace
Day 1 & 2 Bleinschwiller.
On arrival we sat down with a glass of crémant, a sparkling white wine, produce of the hotel's vineyards, and poured over the maps. Loved the ride, next day, from Bleinschwiller to Obernai via Andlau and Barr. Very pictoresque little villages. The ride home was definitely easier. A super day out.
Day 3 & 4 St Hippolyte (15kms)
Today we move camp to St Hippolyte. Packed panniers, no problem. Only 15 miles between hotels, but by the most stunning vineyard route. No cars on these cycle paths although the occasional tractor, and lots of encouragement from farmers whom we passed on the way. They were all interested to hear we came from Australia, and delighted we had chosen Alsace. Edward, our regional assistant, recommends we visit some of the hilltop castles as well as a spectacular display of birds of prey both easily reached from St Hippolyte. We already feel so relaxed, can't believe it is only 5 days since we left Sydney.
Day 5 & 6 Riquewihr (22kms)
The villages are becoming more and more colourful. The houses are painted in bright colours and decorated with sumptuous baskets of flowers. Riquewihr is a farming village with wine its main product. But in the market we have also found local pottery, extremely smelly Munster cheese, very gay table clothes, carefully carved vine roots made into everything from imaginative animals to corkscrew bottle openers and all sorts of tantalising sausage. Our hotel is charming, a little gem, and the meals superb.
Day 7 & 8 Colmar (13kms)
A lovely town. Magnificent buildings and pedestrianised streets. Open air restaurants fill the squares and the winstubs, the local cafés, offer coffee and iced cake, sometimes tarte flambé, a delicious Alsatian pizza, and all sorts of homemade ice creams. The smells and the sights keep tempting us to try something new. We find the trip on the canal through the old part of town quite wonderful. Our restaurant chef has been awarded a Michelin star and each evening takes great pleasure in discussing our menu. This is pure luxury.
Day 9 Bleinschwiller (28kms)
We leave the valley wine route for the meandering paths across the plain. It is easy cycling. And as we are fitter we find we cover the miles more and more easily. Edward and Alexia greet us with enthusiasm and want to hear all about our trip. We are bursting to tell them about the wild flowers, the smell of the crushed grapes, the dinners we ate every evening, the cycle paths through the vineyards, the people we had met...France in reality is even better than the France we imagined